What Does a Hallmark Mean - And Why Does It Matter?

What Does a Hallmark Mean - And Why Does It Matter?

Every piece of gold or silver jewellery I create is sent to the London Assay Office before it leaves my studio. That tiny stamp - the hallmark - is one of the most important things I can tell you about a piece, so I want to explain what it actually means.

A hallmark is independent proof of metal purity

When I send a piece to the Assay Office, I’m not the one deciding whether it’s 9ct or 18ct gold. An independent body tests it and stamps it to confirm the metal is exactly what it’s supposed to be. The hallmark isn’t my word- it’s theirs.

In the UK, hallmarking has been compulsory for gold and silver items above a certain weight since 1300. It’s one of the oldest forms of consumer protection still in use.

What the marks actually say

A full UK hallmark contains several pieces of information: the maker’s mark (mine), the metal and purity (so 925 for sterling silver, or 375 for 9ct gold), and the Assay Office mark. London’s is a leopard’s head, which has been used since the 14th century.

If you look closely at a hallmarked piece with a loupe, you can read all of this. It’s surprisingly satisfying once you know what you’re looking at.

Why I use the London Assay Office

I could use other UK offices - Birmingham, Edinburgh, Sheffield, but I use London because it’s where I’ve always sent work, and there’s something I like about the continuity of it. The leopard’s head mark has been stamped on London gold since 1300. That feels right for pieces I’m making by hand in England.

What it means when jewellery isn’t hallmarked

In the UK, gold items under 1 gram and silver items under 7.78 grams are exempt from compulsory hallmarking. Some very small pieces of mine fall into this category. But any piece I describe as 9ct gold or sterling silver is either hallmarked or falls below the threshold - never because I’m cutting corners.

If you’re buying gold or silver jewellery from any maker and there’s no hallmark and no explanation, ask about why thats the case.

A hallmark is like a gold seal of approval, stamped by a trusted organisation that has been around for ages, to show that the metal in your jewellery is actually what it says it is. Whenever I create a piece that weighs the right amount, I get one. It’s not just for show - it’s the best way to sell jewellery made of precious metals.